Planning a road trip through Albania can be very daunting! So to make it easier for you, I’ve put together a guide for the perfect two-week road trip around Albania.
A route that will lead to the north, to the breathtaking Albanian Alps, and down to the south, to the beautiful Albanian Riveria. A route that gives you a great taste of what the country has to offer, ticking off many bucket list places along the way!
All the different places mentioned below, including where we stayed are pinned on this map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hxhCb55rzujQ9zPM7
Best Time of Year
The best time of year to visit Albania to avoid the crowds, but still enjoy the warmer weather is May, June, and September. If you choose to visit in July and August, you will find everywhere will be a lot busier, slightly more expensive, and hot! If you visit between October and April, you might find some of the roads and trails in the north shut to snow.
We visited mid-May and it was perfect! It was warm, but not too warm. There were plenty of people around, and enough places open, yet wasn’t too busy!
The one thing I will say about visiting in May, is if you are planning on doing the Valbona to Theth hike, this trail can sometimes still have snow on it.
The Currency
Albania uses the Lek. it’s a closed currency, which means you cannot get hold of it outside of Albania. They also do except Euroes too.
Whichever currency you decide to use, you need to carry cash and lots of it! It’s a very cash-focused country. We even had to pay for a couple of our hotels in cash, the ferry along Lake Koman, and some petrol pump stations.
To draw out cash, I recommend using Credins Bank. It’s one of the few banks we found, which don’t charge a fee to draw out money.
Data for Phones
If your current provider doesn’t support data usage in Albania, I recommend buying a local sim. Vodafone is the best one to buy. It has the most coverage in the country. You can buy it either as a physical sim or as an e-sim. If your normal sim is a physical sim card, I recommend buying the e-sim. This means you can keep your normal sim card in your phone while you’re in Albania. This means, that if anyone does want to contact you by your mobile number, they can.
You can buy the local sim in the Vodafone shop in Tirana airport, or from any Vodafone shop around the country.
For more information, please check out their website: https://my.vodafone.al/tourist/
The Driving
The driving is pretty wild, especially in the cities! Lanes don’t seem to exist at roundabouts, and they seem to stop and park their cars anywhere, including in the middle of the lane. Outside the cities, the driving is a little less hectic. However, they do love to overtake on the country roads. Not just one car, but two, three, or as many as they can, all at the same time.
However, don’t let any of this put you off from hiring a car. After a few days on the road, you will get used to their way of driving.
Road Conditions
The road conditions were something we worried about, before visiting. Surprising, most of the roads we drove on, were in very good condition! The worst road we drove on, was the road to to Lake Koman from Shkoder. Small sections of the road became a bit of a dirt track. That being said, it was still very drivable, you just had to go slow.
If you head to Lake Bovilla from Tirana, that road is a dirt track. We didn’t drive this road, instead, we hired a driver, who had a 4 by 4 vehicle. Something, which I highly recommend doing!
More information about Lake Bovilla, and who we used, further down in the blog.
Hiring a Car
If you are looking at hiring a car, you can either arrange it before your trip, or find a local car hire place on arrival. We booked ours with Enterprise, through Expedia, before our visit. This meant on arrival at Tirana airport, the car was ready waiting for us.
If you are choosing to arrange a hire car through a local car hire, not in Tirana airport, you may be expected to pay in cash.
We hired a Fiat Tipo for our two-week road trip around Albania. It was the perfect car for us! Nothing fancy, but did the job! Most of the roads are in good condition, so you don’t anything like a 4 by 4 vehicle. The only road that recommends a 4 by 4 vehicle, is the road to Lake Bovilla. Instead of hiring a 4-by-4 vehicle, we decided to pay for a driver to Lake Bovilla.
Fuel stations
If you hiring a car, something you need to be aware of, some fuel stations will take bank cards, and some are cash-only. If you are looking for a fuel station that takes bank cards, look for the MasterCard sign on the fuel station sign. Even with the MasterCard sign, before filling your vehicle with fuel, double-check with the fuel station, they definitely do take bank cards. We went to a couple that said they take MasterCard on the sign, and when we asked, they said cash only.
Also, something else to be aware of, you don’t fill your own vehicle with fuel, like you do in the UK. An employer of the fuel station will fill your vehicle for you. You just need to let them how much to put in.
Is it Safe?
This question I have been asked so much! Yes, Albania is safe! In fact, I felt very safe! The Albanians are some of the most lovely, welcoming, friendly, and helpful people, I’ve ever met!
The Route
Here’s how to spend two-weeks road-tripping around Albania, visiting some of the most beautiful spots the country has to offer:
(Please note, my two-week road trip doesn’t include our two travel days, flying to and from Albania.)
Day 1 – Tirana
Tirana is the capital of Albania. It’s only a small capital compared to many other European capitals. I personally found a day is enough time to explore, and enjoy what it has to offer.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Arc Hotel for three nights. (We had one day exploring the city, and one day going on a trip to Lake Bovilla.)
The Arc Hotel wasn’t our first choice of hotel, and personally, it was a little too far out from the centre. But if you don’t mind a 50-minute walk into the city centre, and somewhere that’s quite budget-friendly, it’s not a bad little place to stay.
Here’s some of the top things to see and do in the city:
- The famous Skanderbeg Square. A large, open space, in the heart of Tirana, where they hold many events throughout the year.
- Visit the Et’hem Bej Mosque, located in Skanderbeg Square. One of the oldest and most prominent Mosque in Tirana!
- If you went to see Tirana from above, you can head up the Clock Tower. When we visited in May 2024, it cost just 200 Lek (about £1.50) to climb up.
- Climb up the big concrete pyramid. At the top, you get some lovely views over Tirana.
- Take a stroll around the lake.
Day 2 – Lake Bovilla
I have written a separate guide to Lake Bovilla, with everything you need to know: A Full Guide To Lake Bovilla
Day 3 – Shkoder
Shkoder is the northernmost city in Albania and the gateway to the Albanian Alps. It’s the perfect stop for the night to break up your travels from Tirana to Theth National Park.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Chicago, right in the heart of Shkoder. The hotel was beautiful, and the views from our room were great! However, please be aware, that the prayer call at sunrise is likely to wake you up, as the hotel is located right next to the mosque!
What to See and Do
- Wonder the stress of the Old Town. Rruga Kolë Idromeno, being my favourite. This is where you will find a lot of eating places, and coffee shops.
- Visit the Xhamia e Madhe – Ebu Bekr mosque, and listen out for the beautiful prayer call, as it echoes over the city.
- Take a look at the beautiful theatre, the Teatri Migjeni.
- Head up to Rozafa Castle, located just outside the city centre. The best time to go is at sunset for incredible sunset views over the City of Shkoder and Lake Shkoder At the time we visited, May 2024, it cost 200 Lek (about £1.50) per person.
- Head down to Lake Shkoder. Also known as Lake Skadar, Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodra. Here you go for a dip to cool off or take a boat trip out onto the lake.
Day 4 & 5 – Theth National Park
Theth National Park, is a beautiful park, in the heart of the Albanian Alps. The drive to and from the National Park is a lovely drive, along a paved, single-lane, mountain road, leading you up and over a mountain pass. Just watch out for wildlife! We saw pigs, goats, horses, cows, and sheep wandering the road!
Where to Stay
We stayed at a beautiful guesthouse called Bujtina Miqësia for two nights. Not only was the room gorgeous, but they also provided us with a fantastic traditional breakfast each morning, and a feast for dinner on one of the nights.
Where to Eat
We found choices of eating places in Theth National Park, very limited. Depending on where you decide to stay, most of the guesthouses will offer an evening meal.
On our first night, we ate a traditional Albanian meal at our guesthouse. On our second night, we headed into the Village of Theth and enjoyed a delicious pizza at Fast Food Pizzeri Jezerca.
Here’s How to Spend Two Days in Theth National Park
- Walk to Grunas Falls (also known as Theth Waterfall). We did this walk on the day of arrival in Theth. – Full guide hiking guide: Hiking Guide To Grunas Falls
- Walk to the famous Blue Eye. We did this walk on our second day in Theth. – Full hiking guide: Hiking Guide to Theth’s Blue Eye
- Visit the Kisha e Thethit – Theth’s iconic church.
Day 6 – Shkoder
As Shkoder makes a great base for breaking up the journey to and from the Albanian Alps, a second visit to Shkoder is very much needed! We used our second trip to Shkoder, to visit all the spots we didn’t get to see on our first visit!
Where to Stay on Your Second Visit
On our second visit, we decided to book a different hotel. We stayed at Hotel Principe Del Lago. A beautiful hotel, right on the river banks, with a great view of Rozafa Castle.
Day 7 – Valbona Valley National Park via Lake Koman
The most direct route from Shkoder to Vablona Valley National Park is via Lake Koman. What a scenic route it is!
I’ve put a separate guide together, for everything you need to know about the ferry along Lake Koman: A Guide To Lake Koman
Where to Stay
We stayed at the newly open Valbona Resort and Spa for two nights. What a beautiful hotel it is! It’s a 5-star hotel, with great room views, and beautiful spa facilities. Also, probably the cheapest 5-star hotel you will ever stay in!
Where to Eat
Honestly, finding places to eat in Valbona is challenging. We decided to eat in our hotel restaurant for our whole stay. The food was delicious!
Day 8 – Hiking the Famous Valbona to Theth Trail
If there’s one hike to do in Valbona Valley National Park, this is the hike to do! I’ve written a separate hiking guide to this trail: Hiking Guide To The Valbona-Theth Trail
Day 9 – Ulza Regional Nature Park
Day 9 is the day you start making your way down south, towards the Albanian coast. However, with it been such a long drive, we decided to break up the journey with a stop at Ulza Regional Nature Park, and a night stay at the beautiful Lahuta e Vjetër Agroturizëm in Mamurras.
The Nature Park
Ulza Regional Nature Park is a beautiful reservoir in a flooded valley. Unfortunately, we didn’t get long to explore the area. By the time we got there, it was getting late in the day. However, one stop we did make, was at the Shkopet Bridge. Honestly, it’s one of the most sketchiest bridges I’ve ever seen!
Day 10 – Vlore
Vlore makes the start of the breathtaking Albanian Riviera. I have written a whole separate guide to the Albanian Riviera, which covers days 10, 11, and 12: A Guide To The Albanian Riviera
Where to Stay in Vlore
In Vlore, we stayed at Vila Arial, located near the seafront. It was a lovely place to stay, and very close to the beach. The downside, it was a long walk to the Old Town.
Day 11 – Driving Down the Albanian Riviera to Ksmil
The drive down the Albanian Riviera is absolutely stunning! As you drive down to Ksmil, make sure you add some stops!
Here are a few we did, and I recommend:
- Llogara viewpoint
- Dhemri
- Dhemri Beach
- Porto Palermo
Where to Stay in Ksmil
We stayed at Hotel Luxury for two nights. It’s a lovely hotel, with the beaches in walking distance.
Day 12 – A Day in Sarande
Sarande is the capital of the Albanian Riviera. Not only is it a very lively place, it also has a large public beach, making a great spot to go for a swim without being charged a fortune for a sun bed!
Day 13 – Gjirokaster and Berat
Leaving the Albanian Riviera behind, it’s time to start heading north towards Tirana, but not without a few stops along the way!
Gjirokaster
Firist stop, Gjirokaster. A UNESCO city also known as ‘the City of Stone’ or ‘the City of Thousand Steps’. Gjirokaster is a very beautiful city. The best thing to do in the city, is just to get lost down all the little streets, enjoy some traditional food, and soak up the atmosphere. There is a castle up on the hill to have a potter around and soak up some great views over the city.
Berat
After spending a few hours in Gjirokaster, head back on the road and continue you journey north to the Town of Berat, where you will spend the night.
Berat, ‘the town of thousand windows’, is one of my favourite places in Albania! Rich in history, it’s another UNESCO to just wander the streets, get lost, and soak up the atmosphere. There is also another castle on the hill to go and explore!
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Hotel Colombo for one night. A very grand hotel, in the heart of Berat.
Day 14 – Golem
The final stop of the two-week road trip is in a place called Golem, just outside the City of Durres. The main reason for this stop, is that it’s close to Tirana airport.
To be honest with you, this was my least favourite place we visited in Albania. There wasn’t a lot to see and do! It was more like a beach holiday. More like what you expect to see in Benidorm, Spain. However, that being said, it was a nice way to spend the last day of the trip, walking along the beachfront, and relaxing in the hotel pool.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Marbella Beach Hotel. It was a lovely hotel with a pool, and their own private beach. On the evening they had a DJ playing some local music.
I hope this guide has helped you plan you own road trip to Albania! Have a great trip and I hope you fall in love with the country, just as much as I did!
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Further Reading
If you enjoyed this road trip, why not check out another one: A 7 Day Road Trip In Croatia
